There are so many color spaces out there and there seems to be a tiny bit of misinformation about what’s the “best”.
The most common color spaces you’ll encounter are CMYK, Pantone, sRGB, Adobe RGB and ProPhoto RGB. I’m going to stick to sRGB and Adobe RGB since most photographers won’t need to use CMYK, Pantone, or ProPhoto RGB.
Before we can fully dive into color space, we need to talk about calibration. Calibration is absolutely necessary, no matter what color space you choose to use.
Read more: Monitor Calibration 101: How To and Why
* This post contains affiliate links. Thank you in advance for supporting Click it up a Notch.
- No.01Should I calibrate my monitor?
- No.02How do I know if my calibration is correct?
You should be comparing and matching prints to your screen. Although most calibration systems do a great job correcting color, they sometimes miss the mark on screen brightness.
This step is often skipped by so many photographers and results in disappointment in their prints. They see a well exposed image on their screen and get back a much darker print.
If you’ve completed the calibration steps, but notice your prints look desaturated in color in comparison to your screen, you probably have a color space problem. Thankfully color space issues are a really easy fix.
Color space can be a hot topic among photographers and views are sometimes divided on the topic. But it’s also something that quite a few photographers don’t really know much about it.
So let’s talk color space.
- No.01What is sRGB?
sRGB stands for standard red, green, blue. It’s the color space used on the internet, most computer monitors and mobile devices.
- No.02What is Adobe RGB?
The Adobe RGB 1998 color space has a gamut that’s over 30% larger than sRGB. This means there are more colors and they tend to be more vibrant.
- No.03Adobe RGB shows more colors, therefore it’s better…. Right?
Not alway. Let me explain.
Think of sRGB and Adobe RGB as crayons. You can see every single color in the box of sRGB crayons. The Adobe RGB box has a lot more crayons, but you can’t always see some of the colors.
The reason you can’t see some of the colors is because the Adobe RGB gamut is much larger than what most screens are capable of displaying.
- No.04When should I be using sRGB vs. Adobe RGB?
Well, it depends.
The first thing it depends on is whether or not you have a wide gamut monitor or not. Monitors like the Eizo ColorEdge or the BenQ are both amazing wide gamut monitors, but it seems that most photographers prefer the iMac (sRGB or P3).
So, I mentioned that it depends on the monitor, but it also depends if you are primarily print based or web based.
If your print lab supports Adobe RGB and you edit on a calibrated wide gamut monitor, you should ABSOLUTELY print in Adobe RGB. Wider gamut means your prints will be much more vivid and accurate in color.
However, if you don’t print often and/or you’re not using a wide gamut monitor, sRGB is just as amazing.
I actually tell all my retouching clients that do not have wide gamut monitors to stick with sRGB from start to finish. It’s the only way to really guarantee that your image will be consistent on the web AND in print.
- No.05I shoot and edit in Adobe RGB. Why do my images look so dull?
If you notice dull images when you upload them online, you must remember that images have to be converted to the sRGB colorspace first. If you don’t, the web converts it for you, which is never ideal as you can see from the example above.
If you’re noticing dull prints you probably have a lab color space issue. If you print an Adobe RGB image with a lab that doesn’t support the color space, it’ll usually convert to sRGB in their online ordering system and things can go very bad.
Also, finding the right lab might take a few tries simply because their color management varies. I find that most pro labs do an exceptional job with Adobe RGB files.
- No.06How do I properly convert to different color spaces.
This is easy to do in Lightroom when you export. Just make sure the color space is set to sRGB under file settings.
It’s also easy to do in Photoshop. Go to “edit” and scroll down to “convert to profile”.
You can also do it in PS by heading to “file”, “export” and “save for web” for images you want to share online, but still want to keep Adobe RGB. Be sure to click convert to sRGB and uncheck “embed color profile”.
- No.07Can I edit Adobe RGB images on a standard monitor?
Yep! Calibrate your monitor and be sure do the print comparison. You’ll still need to send an sRGB jpeg to the print lab to make sure you color calibration is correct.
Also keep in mind that you’ll only be able to see your image in sRGB because your monitor doesn’t support the wider Adobe RGB gamut. You could possibly clips colors that your screen can’t display.
- No.08What color space should I use?
It’s completely up to you! I use both in my personal and retouching work. Although I don’t think it’s ideal to edit an Adobe RGB image on a standard monitor (only because you can’t see all the colors), I understand why it’s sometimes necessary.
As long as you know how to properly convert Adobe RGB to sRGB, you should be golden!
So that was a little long and hopefully not too complicated. Color space issues are the most common problem I encounter with my retouching and editing clients, but it’s always the easiest problem to fix.
Bonus tip: If you have clients and deliver digital images, it’s always better to deliver images in sRGB. Many consumer labs don’t support Adobe RGB and your clients may be disappointed in the quality. Plus, you wouldn’t want improperly converted images floating around on the web.
Are you team sRGB, Adobe RGB or both?